Osaka in Reflection

Y'know, I came into Osaka expecting one or two things.

A. It would be a crazy, completely different world, a heaven on earth divided from the usual stereotypical Japan, where originality and creativity blossom and thrive.

OR

B. Another big 'ol city with dudes who really really hate foreigners.

And it turned out that it was... erm... neither really. And kind of both at the same time.

Certainly one aspect is true: Osaka is not foreigner friendly. Very rarely are signs in English, nor menus, or staff. (this isn't really a problem to me, but I can imagine for non Japanese speakers this is easily the biggest turnoff of them all). They try... but... y'know... it's not really Tokyo in terms of foreign tourism. Though it's the second largest city in Japan, when more statistically comparing it to Tokyo there is no question in terms of size, Tokyo has around 17 million people, Osaka only 2.1 (3 if you count commuters). This discrepancy is obvious from the get go, as naturally then, for many foreign tourists, Osaka seems to be tossed aside.

This is a shame though, because Osaka was actually very fascinating in its own regard. And I hate to continuously compare it to Tokyo (since I'm sure I will), but both are expansive cities on the coast of Japan that have created an epicenter of culture, food, business and trade, and even personal dialects. I remember reading about the "centers" theory of Japanese culture: how Japan comprised of two center cities that created everything media and socially, spreading it to the rest, and Osaka and Tokyo are those two cities.

To me, the similarity yet clear distinction is rather remarkable.

One of the first I noticed, and I'm sure I'm not the first to point this out, but people in Osaka, when standing in an escalator, stand on the OPPOSITE side of that of Tokyoites or Sapporians. (lulz sapporians thatisntawordmike shutup!). In other words, while letting the people in a rush pass, people in Osaka stand on a different side than people in Tokyo.

Well... that's just... weird really...

Stuff is just tweaked a little bit to be different. And lovely. And interesting.

Food also comes to mind as rather different, in a delightful way of course. Okonomiyaki has a different texture and method (for more info check out my friend's blog here). Street foods are idealized and heightened to gourmet status in restaurants. (Like imagine a hotdog being sold at a 4 star). And it's clearly 100% delicious.

The city is busy, but not... as... busy.

And, well, culture seems far more deep rooted. Osaka has 1300 year old temples after all. Amongst the concrete jungle inlaid are small temples, awkward in their composition as they are dwarfed by the surrounding buildings. but remarkably gem like. Tokyo, unfortunately due to WW2, doesn't have this feel. It's all just... new.

And yet... much like Tokyo, it seems so, impersonal. I just feel like everyone is coming to Osaka city for a "little bit". Then they leave. (Which is true, the population multiplies by 50% during the day). It distances it, makes it seem mirage like, the realism of such a place is distant.

But it's just... different. It's still Japan, still familiar in its own right, but it's just not quite the Japan that people stereotype. And I enjoy that.

I always like knowing that culture is more complex than we've made it out to be.

Nara next!

Oh MAN is that expensive!

Okay... I know people are sick of my food talk. I can't help it, honestly!

Food is so important in all cultures, and if anyone knows my background at all, I have a pretty long relationship with food and cooking. So it only makes sense that my observations in cultural differences and adventures would largely incorporate food.

It's only fair to mention that Hokkaido is renown in japan for it's high quality produce, fish, and general food stuffs.

Observe the following image below.



Why yes, those melons are being sold at 1100 to 1800 yen a PIECE. All different types of melon, each categorized by sweetness, size, flesh color, and priced accordingly.

It's gradually come to my attention that food in Japan has a dominant focus on local production and high quality. These melons are expensive because they're grown nearby, without high infrastructure shipping methods or big corporation cost reduction strategies.

In other words, they're local, and I'd bet my foot and arm some of the best melon you will ever taste.

Similarly, I present "Nama Caramel", or quite literally, "Raw Caramel"

Why yes this is amazing stuff

A Hokkaido specialty, nama caramel is a caramel candy which is slowly cooked at low heat at hours at a time.

The result is a candy which must be kept in the refrigerator, or else, quilt literally, the candy will melt. It is a caramel with the texture and mouth feel of butter, smoothly coating the palate as is gently warms and melts over the tongue. Simple and yet extremely deep flavor, rich, completely and utterly delicious. It honestly made me speechless.

And it costs 850 yen for that tiny container of 12.

Which might seem outlandish. Who would spend $8.50 on caramel?

But that store is packed, every day throngs of customers gaze at the treats. Why?

Because here in Japan, quality, the assurance of something special, be it a simple melon that was grown with detail to perfect flavor and appeal, or instead a perfectly smooth luscious slice of tuna, or a simple candy that is created so flawlessly and deliciously, has become a very modern trend. The foodies here are satisfied by the simple, yet perfect.

By comparison, American cookery, with it's overly detailed 30 ingredient dishes, absurd "molecular gastronomy" techniques, and redundant recipes, is a joke.

A caramel, a melon, a slice of fish. Respect for the ingredients themselves. This is missing from the American food world.

But it exists here, and it is delicious.